Bollero Tutorial

This might be less of a tutorial on how I made the actual jacket and more a tutorial on how to adapt a basic bodice pattern.

Since this is a jacket I used a pattern one size up from the dress I had already made. I already had the same pattern out for the dress but this adaptation could be made to any plain bodice pattern.

modified bodices

I eyeballed the curve for the front opening (you can see my first attempts lol) and changed the back pattern to be cut on the fold. Since the jacket is lined you’ll need to cut these out twice, once from the main fabric and then the lining.

sleeve pattern

This is basically how I made my sleeve pattern. Except I made mine on left over birthday wrapping paper so I didn’t take a picture.

lining pieces

sew shoulders

After all your pieces are cut out sew the shoulders right sides together on both the main set of fabrics and the lining fabrics.

pin sleeve

Pin the sleeves in and sew the curve but not down the arm.

sew sides

When both sleeves are in you can fold it down and sew along the sides.

pin bodice and lining

With the right sides touching you’re going to put the main fabric into the lining fabric and sew along the inside openings. Everywhere except the arms since that is where you’ll be turning it right side out. If you want to be able to tie the jacket shut this is when you’ll insert the ribbon between the main and lining fabrics.

DSC_0075

With the jacket right side out we have to finish the arm sleeves. You’re going to pull the lining fabric past the main fabric and fold it down. Then do the same with the main fabric but fold it towards the lining.

finished sleeve

Top stitch the opening to hold the folds in place. You’ll probably want to use the smallest seam allowance you can manage, just to make things difficult on yourself. Sewing little tiny baby sleeves isn’t really hard enough on its own.

finished

I also top stitched along the rest of the jacket to help hold the lining down and keep it from bunching up but this is optional.

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