Welt Pocket Tutorial

This is the same vest pattern that I made before but I wanted to do a tutorial on how I added the pockets. This will be a single welt made out of a single piece of fabric. Unfortunately, I did this at night and so the pictures aren’t the best but hopefully they will make sense. These pockets were very intimidating to me but after the first few times they’re really pretty easy.

Starting on the right side of the fabric trace out the shape of the pocket you want. I made my pockets three inches long and half an inch tall.

welt outline

You can barely see my blue outline but it’s there!

Red thread

View from the right and wrong side of the fabric.

With a piece of thread you’re going to sew from corner to corner, along the short side of your rectangle, without tying the thread off. This is just to transfer the markings you made to the back of the fabric where we will be sewing next.

Math time. The actual pocket bag and welt flap are all one piece of fabric for this tutorial. It is essentially a four by nine rectangle. If you’re making pockets the same size as mine feel free to stop here and just cut that out, we’ll get to what to do with it in a minute. But to get that number I added half an inch on either side of the pocket lengthwise (so 3″+.5″+.5″ =4″), then one inch to the top, one inch for the welt, and the remaining seven inches are arbitrary. To me anyways, I’m sure there is a more professional way to do this but that’s not my style! Basically, the rectangle is eventually folded in half to create the pocket, those top two inches are necessary to form the welt but the bottom inches of the rectangle are just how long you want the pocket to be.

pocket placement

Now that you have the rectangle, you’re going to position it on the right side of the fabric. I line up the top edge 1 inch from the top of the pocket outline and then center it so that the extra on the sides are evenly dispersed. Pin this on whichever side of the fabric makes sense to you, I did the right side but we’ll be sewing on the wrong side.

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I’m using fleece so It’s hard to tell but you want the right sides of both the pocket and bodice to be touching. So if you were making the welt out of a patterned fabric the pattern would be facing down in this step.

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Finally time to sew something! On the wrong side of the fabric you are going to sew two straight and parallel lines connecting the thread that you put in earlier. I went ahead and drew a line to follow but its not necessary if you’re a pretty straight sewer. Those extra threads you put in earlier are no longer necessary so go ahead and pull them out.

Crappy picture of what the front will look like.

Crappy picture of what the front will look like.

Ok, now we have to cut the fabric. I put this off for a while and puttered around the kitchen, made a cup of coffee and generally procrastinated. But I promise its not that scary. It’s going to look kind of like this: >—< (fancy graphics!)

cut fabric

Cut one slit in the middle of the fabric, stopping about 1/4 of an inch from the ends. Angling towards your sewn lines cut two small slits coming off the main cut you just made as close as you can get to the seam without cutting through it. Now push your rectangle of fabric through the hole you just made to the wrong side of the fabric and if you’re feeling particularly efficient go ahead and press it flat. I didn’t.

turn through

I think these next steps are a little hard to explain with text so I tried to take a lot of pictures to show what I mean but I’d be happy to explain further if necessary. On the back side of the fabric you’re going to take the rectangle and fold it up then down to form the welt.

welt shape

This is the final shape of the welt from the wrong side. You’re going for a sort of ‘S’ shaped fold.

Pin it from the front and then sew a line all along the perimeter of the opening from the right side of the fabric. What you just sewed should now be keeping the shape of the welt when you remove the pins so you’re almost done!

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outline sewn

I’ve sewn an extra line of zigzags here on either side of the pocket edges just to reinforce the seam since that is where the most stress will be on the fabric.

Now all thats left is to fold the bottom half of your rectangle up to meet the top edge and sew it shut!

Sew along where the white lines are to connect the pocket. I forgot to take a picture of it.

Sew along where the white lines are to connect the pocket. I forgot to take a picture of it.

finished pockets

VoilĂ , welt pockets!

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Happy Birthday!

There won’t be many sappy posts on this blog. But there will be this one lol.

My baby turned one today! This is so bittersweet and something I’m sure every parent goes through. But one year ago I was in a hospital bed holding this tiny bundle of baby and was just overwhelmed with her newness. Having her in my arms was surreal and I had no concept of what our lives would be like with each other.

And now a year later, I’m holding that same sweet baby who I love more than I thought I could. And I still have no concept of what our lives will turn into because all of my expectations have been surpassed.

She’s made my world so much smaller and bigger all at once. Smaller because of all the little things that I never thought I would be so excited to see. Like walking and learning simple signs. But it’s so much bigger in that there’s an entire life full of possibilities crawling around my living room. I’m constantly amazed.

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So, Happy First Birthday!

Geranium Dress by Rae

I’ve been wanting this pattern ever since I first saw it. I really don’t know why I put off buying it for so long and in fact this tunic is made from fabric I bought specifically for this pattern back in the beginning of Summer. DSC_0002b I finally bit the bullet since this is also the pattern I want to use for a Christmas dress and wanted to test the size before I cut into the fancy fabric I bought for Christmas. I love it! This is a really nice pattern and even with the buttonholes was very easy to put together. I won’t use the cap sleeves in the next version but really wanted to try them out. And if I have time I’m hoping to use the bodice to make a little bolero jacket.

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The bodice is lined with a light pink cotton to match the embroidered flowers on the main fabric. Side note: I ironed this right before taking the pictures but it’s linen which wrinkles really easily. Maybe not the best for baby clothes but I loved the little flowers. DSC_0044b This might be the only time I show the inside of something I make. They don’t always turn out this nicely, although you can see on the right where it’s a little uneven. I lined the whole thing just to make it a little warmer. DSC_0031b The lining is just a little longer so it peaks out the bottom.

Winter Bear Hat

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While I had the camera out yesterday I thought I would get some pictures of the hat I made recently. All of our hats are from the summer and now that its getting colder I wanted something heavier/thicker. This is self-drafted and I’m hoping to do a tutorial and potentially upload the pattern pieces some time in the next week or two. Things are hectic this time of year so bear with me!

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Polka Dot Dress by Kikoi Patterns

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First off, you’ll have to just imagine that this dress is more pink than it appears in the photos. I had a hard time photographing it true to life so just use your imagination. Its a really pretty pink almost sweater-like material that has silver threads running through it.

The pattern for this dress was one that the Kikoi shop was giving away for free in the summer. Although, I just looked at their Etsy shop and don’t actually see it available any more which is too bad because it’s a really nice pattern. The construction was simple and I found the directions very comprehensive. The original pattern finishes the bodice with bias tape but I lined it since we’re getting into winter.

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It also called for a little ruffle detail on either side of the fake placket. I wasn’t paying any attention and blew right past both the ruffle and placket so I had to go back and add it, then ended up skipping the ruffle entirely. I love how the little inverted pleats on the front and back of the skirt turned out. I drafted a sleeve pattern to fit the dress (it didn’t come with one) and mimicked the pleats on the bottom, which you can almost see in the first picture on the right.

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More pleats! This one was out of necessity rather than design choice, the dress is still a little big so I was trying to take in with as little work as possible. Lazy sewer, here! I would definitely purchase more patterns from this shop although they’re in the process of switching their name to Amelie Clothing so if you search for them and have trouble try the new name. One of my pet peeves with printable patterns is when they don’t line up just right. Admittedly I’m a little anal about putting them together but this pattern gave me no trouble.

Burp Cloths

The burp cloths in this tutorial are one of the first things I made when I started using a sewing machine. I hand sewed anything I wanted to make before I got my $20 garage sale machine (It was a dark time before that, full of half-finished projects from lack of patience). But this was the perfect introduction project.

I was around five months pregnant at the time and went a little crazy. I made at least five for myself and then three more for the neighbor across the street. I don’t have any pictures of those but these are some I made for a baby package I recently mailed to my cousin.

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I love the flannel patterns that are available now! The ones I made myself are a little boring but the flannel selection has greatly improved since then. Mine are over a year old now and have held up great. They’re the perfect size for throwing over my shoulder or tossing in the diaper bag and the chenille backing is really absorbent. This most recent set used up the last of my chenille and I haven’t been able to find it in stores since then but I plan to try terry cloth on the next batch I make.